I felt sorry for the rigger, because until he was at the top of the mast we had no idea anything was wrong. He descended in record time though. It could have been worse......we could have been mid Atlantic!
We took time out to sail in Grenada Classics on our friends boat, Desiderata which was brilliant fun.
We also caught up with friends Pat and Pat, who we met in La Palma, and our paths have continued to cross for the last few weeks. Its been great to have friends to share the experiences of these beautiful islands.
One thing we had to do before leaving Grenada was visit the Belmont chocolate factory, so we went on a tour of the island. Pat and myself enjoyed the wait for the driver and fitted perfectly into the role of tourist!
We were only waiting in the foyer when a group arrived for their 'welcome' rum punch. We must have looked longingly!Grenada is so beautiful with the Grand Etang tropical rain forest, nutmeg trees and cocoa trees and the elusive mona monkey ( introduced by slaves from West Africa).
Nutmeg and mace.
Everywhere we went .... all you would hear was 'wow', apart from 'How's that!' which being English in an island obsessed by cricket, had to be done. It brought back childhood memories of Grandad Waldron sat in a chair, often with a knotted hanky on his head, from morning to night watching the West Indies cricket matches.
We finally left Grenada and sailed for Carriacou....only a day sail away but past kick 'em Jenny and kick em 'Jack, two underwater volcanoes, one with an exclusion zone around it. Whilst we were on Grenada someone mentioned a tsunami warning, which was dismissed....but checking on the websites, there was a M6.5 off Barbados on 18th February. Although this wasn't felt in Grenada, it was felt by islanders in Bequia.
Carriacou is the home of wooden boat building, and Tristan has been admiring the Carriacou sloops and meeting the builders.
The island is beautiful and we walked from Hillsborough (the capital) to Tyrrel Bay where we were at anchor, enjoying Paradise Beach, eel grass reefs and the fact that there was no one around. I have never seen so many conch shells.
We sailed to Petite Martinique, as we had heard wooden boats were being built there. After a trek through prickly scrub, we found a fishing motor trawler being built but it seem promises have been made for orders of sailing sloops that have not come to fruition. Its a shame. the island needs trade as skills will be lost if the islanders are not given the opportunity to pass them on to future generations.
We checked out of Carriacou and sailed to St. Vincent and the Grenadines. Check in was at Union Island......but we didn't stay long as the anchorage was crowded and it was impossible to swim from the boat unless you didn't mind being run over by kite surfers.
These are amazing islands. Some busy with charter boats resembling a scene from American Pie, but it is possible to find beautiful quiet anchorages. definitely not Salt Whistle Bay, Mayreau or even Tobago Cays
We met up with our friends Pat and Pat and spent many days snorkelling in crystal clear waters over coral reefs....some better than others, but you never know what you may find especially the rare frog fish.
Tristan was very well behaved, and although he has been deprived of meat and fish for a while.....he left unharmed the flounder, octopus, squid and eels.... and the goats feeding on the beach.
A stop over at Canouan, Charlestown Bay was a must. We left for Tobago Cays but they were heaving and we wanted peace and quiet. We nearly stopped at Mustique but avoided squalls and headed for Bequia, where we have been chillin' for the last week. It has been really relaxing even though the first anchorage in Friendship Bay was rolly!
Bequia held an attraction for me because of its history of subsistence whaling. February to April is the whaling season but some years they catch nothing. The whales are bought ashore in Sempler's Cove and shared amongst the islanders.
The island has an agreement with the IWC to take two humpback whales a year. Every bit is used by the islanders, but they are not always able to take the whales. The whaling was carried out by open whaling boats with harpoons but faster open boats are now used.
We are currently anchored off Lower Bay and Princess Margaret's Bay where we can literally jump off and snorkel in beautiful clear waters over a small but diverse reef. Providing you swim quick to get to the shore......the biggest danger is people opening the throttle on their tenders!
The island is dependent on tourism and is making a huge effort to protect what they have. We visited the turtle sanctuary where work is being done to protect the hawksbill turtle and educate the young not to kill turtles.
Tomorrow we are sailing off to Martinique and plan to stay a few days to raid the French supermarkets before heading off to Montserrat.....more volcanoes for St Patricks Day.
Chillin'
